The historical, social, economic, scientific and environmental importance of coffee is beyond doubt. It is not for nothing that it is the raw material on which by far the most scientific literature has been published for many decades.
Although there have always been coffee growers who have wanted to make quality coffee, and since the beginning of the 20th century there have been universities that have studied it to improve yields, quality, pest and disease control, etc., it is since the mid-1990s that coffee has continued to evolve from volume to quality positions. Agronomists, geneticists, biologists, the most restless coffee growers and other professionals have worked to improve crops, selections and the creation of new cultivars that, with the support of universities and research centres in producing countries, World Coffee Research and CIRAD among others, have taken the quality of the bean – and therefore of the drink – to unprecedented heights. Even so, good, very good and extraordinary coffee remains a small part of all the coffee grown on the planet today.
MACHINERY, COMPETITIONS, TASTINGS AND CAFETERIAS
Roasting machines, espresso machines and grinders hardly resemble those of a few years ago on a technological level. Engineers and other scientists have steadily improved them and thus improved – and greatly – the quality of the beverage. This improvement includes water treatments and the study of the minerals that are best suited to the beverage coffee.
Tasting competitions and the emergence of baristas have helped the work of coffee growers, expert tasters and specialised roasters to reach consumers in a more authentic way, changing their taste, appreciation and sensory perception of the coffee beverage, especially among the youngest segment of the population, which bodes well for the future of the best coffee.
Coffee shops are also changing. I hear many people, through the networks or the media, claiming for the bars of a lifetime. I like them too, but they are the bars of MY life. The bars when my father was young were different, their offer was different and, of course, they will be different the day my children are as old as I am now. The coffee in these speciality places, which some criticise, is frankly better and will force many of the old ones to get busy making better coffee. In my opinion they are gambling with the prosperity of their business.
Since the beginning of time, some people have been motivated to research and improve their craft or art. This happens in all disciplines, and coffee is no exception. I find the expression ‘but it’s just a fucking coffee’ shocking. Beyond the fact that this is an insult to the intelligence, experience and knowledge of all the professionals in the coffee chain, put at the service of improving the quality of the product and their lives, this is simply denying that human progress exists, which is absolutely impossible to accept. Isn’t it true that it is not a ‘fucking’ glass of wine, or a ‘fucking’ splash of oil? Isn’t it true that it is understood that there are differences in quality, prices, regions, types of grapes or olives; that there are thousands of cheeses or types of peaches or wool whose quality and complexity have evolved over the years and that it is a joy to choose? Just imagine in the world of coffee: 170 million 60-kilo bags, more than 80 producing countries with their denominations of origin, more than 600 varietals or cultivars of coffee and above all millions of coffee growers. Is there any doubt what man and nature can do together for and for coffee of the highest quality?
As Marta D. Riezo says in her book Agua y Jabón, ‘everyone relates to quality as they wish’. As I have explained, coffee is a very complex reality, there are coffees of all prices, origins, DO, qualities and processing; it can be prepared in many ways; roasting and extraction technology can be used to a greater or lesser degree; more or less complex water filtering systems can be used; and all of this is reflected, or should be reflected, in the quality and price of a cup of coffee. Choose what you like. If you like coffee very much, if it is for you a gastronomic beverage, a small daily pleasure, or a gift you give yourself: be demanding and walk a few more blocks to reward the professional barista who makes you a delicious, sweet, smooth or intense, aromatic, complex cup of coffee with a pleasant aftertaste. Go across town to buy your domestic coffee at your local roastery. But if for you it’s just a shot of caffeine and you don’t care if it’s burnt, if it tastes of dry wood or ashes or popcorn, if the milk has been burnt or if the water system and the coffee machine and grinder are not well maintained, or if it’s prepared by someone without knowledge or love for their work: go to the first one you find, the cheapest one in the neighbourhood or the one you find on sale on the supermarket shelves. Fortunately, the world is full of options, but don’t deny coffee its share of excellence and progress, because that existed, exists and will exist.
Bonus track
‘Franchising vs. Sole Proprietorship’. By Salvador Sans.
Written in 2000, after returning from a SCAA held in the USA.
The world of coffee is changing. This is an unquestionable fact, as is the fact that consumers are changing their eating habits, and that this is going to determine the range of products and services on offer in the hotel and catering industry in the coming years.
Franchises or chains specialising in coffee have burst onto the scene with great success in many parts of Spain, attracting customers, sales and therefore profits. And no, they are not a passing fad, they are a reality and they are here to stay.
If you are a restless entrepreneur who not only wants to lose your market share, but wants to increase it, or who simply does not want to give up and therefore fight against an upcoming arrival of this type of business on your street, allow me some thoughts. If you think any of what I have just said makes sense, read on. If not, now is the time to throw these papers in the bin and not waste your time.
- YOU WERE HERE FIRST. Don’t wait to react when one of these establishments is already open in your street. In your street, in your neighbourhood, your establishment has a history and is known: it is the newcomers who have to prove that they are better than you. Set the bar high, don’t make it easy for them. It is difficult for the public to change if they are very satisfied with something.
- SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL. While coffee shop chains are financially very strong – so they can acquire better locations and do a lot of advertising – single shop owners have many powerful weapons to fight with:
- They are closer to the customer so they can give a more personal touch to your business. Details often make the difference and you can be aware of them.
- They have less changeable staff, so customers feel more at ease when they see familiar faces who know their tastes.
- The owner is more vigilant on a daily basis about the quality of all his products and services.
- It is more flexible and quicker to offer new products and beverages.
Remember that new ideas send a clear message to the customer: the company is alive, active and focused on satisfying its customers.
- BEING JUST ‘GOOD’ IS NOT ENOUGH TODAY. The competition is tough and they want the whole pie for themselves. You must have a passion for excellence that will sustain you in the tough times and grow your business in the good times. How?
- The decoration of your premises should give the right idea of your passion. Remember that ‘Caesar’s wife is not enough to be honest, she must appear to be honest’, meaning that it is not enough for your premises to specialise in serving great coffee, it must appear to do so.
- Quality is a total concept. This means that if the coffee is good, the other products served must also be good. They must all be of the same quality.
- Buying the best coffee is not enough. You have to have the best machinery (coffee machine and grinder) to get the best performance and a regularity of taste that creates a ‘taste’ among your customers, so that they will not find another one as good anywhere else.
- Don’t stop learning, learning more about coffee, coffee machines, coffee grinders and coffee drinks. You will be more confident and have an aura of ‘expert’ among your customers. Your staff should also acquire this knowledge to achieve a high level of service quality..
To sum up:
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- You have a personality: explore it.
- Customers will come back repeatedly, and bring other customers, if they receive the kind of quality products and services they expect. Don’t let them down.
- Never stop learning.
- If something is wrong, change it; if it is right, reinforce it.
- The last test is the taste of coffee, don’t let your guard down, don’t be tempted.
- Make customers your guests.
- Be different, be crazy, be great and have fun. Your customers will appreciate it.
If the products and services you provide are out-of-the-box, you will not only survive, you will thrive, no matter how much competition you have.
