Decades have passed since the Arabica Geisha cultivar entered the specialty coffee scene at the 2004 Best of Panama auction. Since then, it has broken auction price records year after year, helped baristas win awards in global competitions, and surprised and delighted the palates of professionals and enthusiasts around the world.
Discovery and history of Geisha coffee
Known worldwide as the Champion or Champagne of varietals, it was discovered in 1931 in the village of Gesha or Gecha. In this isolated location in the Bench-Maji area of south-western Ethiopia, it was found by botanists who were collecting seeds for study. It was originally known as the Abyssinia variety, the ancient name for present-day Ethiopia, and was first transplanted to Kenya.
A few years later, Kenya’s Director of Agriculture requested more seeds from that area. So in 1936, Richard Whalley, British Consul in Maji, collected 10 pounds of seeds with the help of members of the Tishana tribe. These seeds were sent to Kitale, where Kenya’s coffee research centre was located, and to Tanzania, where they were first known as Geisha.
In the 1950s, the FAO sent some Geisha seeds, reference VC496, to the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Centre (CATIE) in Costa Rica for study in its varietal park. From there, via Costa Rica, it arrived in Panama, specifically in the Boquete area, brought by Don Pachi Serracín in 1963.
His son Francisco José, a coffee grower, researcher and roaster with a long career and excellent reputation, explains: “Even my father’s colleagues in Costa Rica, where he was a researcher, used to tease him a little, saying, ‘Pachi, you’re crazy, why are you going to take Geisha to plant in Boquete? It’s a tall plant, it doesn’t produce much, it dies very easily because it has a very poor root system, you have to be a slave to it, but what’s even worse is that it’s a coffee that doesn’t taste like coffee.
At that time, it was resistant to coffee rust, a fungus that was not yet present in Panama and which entered the country later in 1983. It was also resistant to leaf rust, another fungus that frequently attacks coffee plantations, especially in these tropical areas.
And in what year did you first plant?
In 1963, it was not until 40 years later that I had the opportunity to discover the organoleptic characteristics of this variety during a tasting of pure varietals. From then on, news spread throughout the world of specialty coffees that there was a coffee with these characteristics. In addition, it participated in a tasting event at the Specialty Coffee Association in the United States and won the competition. At that moment, the Geisha variety was catapulted to fame, and from 2004 to the present day, it has continued to reaffirm its characteristics and quality as the most exotic and expensive coffee in the world.
Beyond Ethiopia, its homeland, and Panama, where it found its ideal terroir, Geisha is now grown in other coffee-producing countries such as Malawi, Colombia, Costa Rica, Mexico, Taiwan, and Indonesia, among others. As with any other varietal or cultivar, its expressiveness in the cup will depend on the agroecological conditions and the wisdom of the coffee grower. Just because it is Geisha does not mean that you will find those explosive profiles in all Geishas on the market.
As we can see, the history of Geisha is not one of dazzling success due to its flavour and aroma. It was its resistance to the Ojo de Gallo disease, which devastated coffee plantations, that made the coffee growers of Boquete take notice of this plant and extend its cultivation area to over 1,650 metres above sea level. Finally, by another coincidence, a varietal tasting revealed its wonderful potential.
Unusual trees
Geisha trees are tall, have beautiful long leaves and require a lot of feeding and care, making them much more difficult to manage than other varieties.
Another peculiarity of Geisha trees is that their branches grow at a 90° angle, whereas normally they grow at a 45° angle. The cherries and beans are particularly long and oblong, and it has been shown that the best quality is found on farms located at altitudes above 1,500 metres above sea level.
The cultivation and production of Geisha has its particularities and challenges for coffee growers.
- It has 2/3 less root mass than Caturra (an Arabica variety widely used in Central and South America). It feeds less because it has a lower nutrient absorption capacity, therefore it has less vigour and productivity.
- Having a very poor root system can lead to high mortality if it is not fed properly.
- It is as high above the ground as it is below, so the coffee trees must be further apart, which means fewer trees per hectare.
- Three times less production than other Arabica varieties under the same conditions.
- It is more biennial because it has fewer reserves to make new tissue. The following year it will have less flowering and, therefore, fewer cherries.
- It takes between 5 and 7 years to produce its first harvest, compared to the usual 3 to 5 years for other varieties.
- Lower bean density, which also poses a challenge for the master roaster, as it requires different temperature levels before and during roasting. A delicate and complex bean that requires very careful handling in order to preserve its infinite nuances.
- The difference when harvesting 1 litre of Caturra vs. Geisha cherries on the same farm: Caturra: 730g/l – Geisha: 680g/l
Organoleptic characteristics of the Geisha cultivar
Certainly, Geisha coffee combines a series of qualities that make it unique in flavour and aroma, whether it has been processed using the wet method or the dry method. For expert tasters, Geisha stands out for its great sweetness and transparent, bright flavour.
- Cultivar with great sweetness, clean and bright flavour.
- Notes ranging from red and citrus fruits to mango, mandarin, bergamot, papaya and peach. Notes of cocoa, cinnamon, honey and black tea are also common, with floral aromas of jasmine or orange blossom.
- High acidity and juicy body. It is not a strong or dense coffee, but rather elegant and complex.
Ideal preparation of Geisha coffee
In order for Geisha to express its unique and distinctive floral and fruity flavours to the fullest extent possible, the roast must inevitably be light. Once roasted, the beans must rest for 2 to 3 weeks to reach their maximum potential.
For all these reasons, the best extraction methods are those that highlight its aromatic complexity and bright acidity. It is also important to choose the right type of coffee maker, as these fine coffees are best suited to gentle extraction methods. This means filter methods such as V60, Chemex or Kalita, as these highlight their complexity.
Traditional espresso is not usually recommended, as its intensity can overshadow the delicacy of Geisha; however, in experimental contexts, recipes with longer ratios (allongé, turbo shots) can be explored, allowing some of its complexity to be appreciated.
The Kalita Wave is the method chosen at Cafés El Magnífico to prepare filtered coffee because its flat base and multiple holes allow for a more stable and uniform extraction than other drippers. This geometry greatly prevents the formation of water channels, ensuring that all the coffee is evenly wet. The result is a cup with greater consistency, balanced sweetness and bright acidity, qualities that enhance the floral and fruity character of Geisha.
This approach seeks to highlight both the natural sweetness and clarity that make this Geisha coffee variety truly exceptional.
Receta sugerida Kalita (2 tazas)
- 20 g of coffee
- 320 g of water
- 92-93 °C
- Total time: 3:00 – 3:30 minutes
Tips for making a good cup
- Preheat the Kalita and the server: this prevents temperature loss that affects extraction.
- Use filtered or bottled water with low mineral content: water makes up 98% of coffee, so its quality is crucial.
- Wet the filter thoroughly before starting: this removes any paper taste and helps the filter adhere to the Kalita.
- Pour in controlled pulses: this promotes even saturation and prevents channelling.
- Adjust the grind according to the flow: if the water runs too fast, try a finer grind; if it takes too long, open the grind a little.
Geisha ratings and price
Since the Best of Panama competition began, the prestige and quality of the winning lots, thanks to the work and effort of Panamanian coffee growers, has continued to grow, as has their price.
In 2025, the 20 kilos of winning Geisha beans belonging to the Peterson family’s La Esmeralda farm, with a score of 98 points from the jury, fetched a record price of $604,080, or $30,204 per kilo.
Bibliography:
- A reference guide to ethiopian coffee varieties, Getu bekele & Timothy Hill.
- Websites for Don Pachi Estate, Hacienda La Esmeralda, and Best of Panama.
- Thanks for the knowledge received from the extraordinary coffee growers: Francisco José Serracín, Ricardo Koyner, Graciano Cruz, hermanos Peterson, Plinio Ruiz, Calle Janson,